Shirts - Gieves & Hawkes

All fabrics used in the production of our shirts are produced in natural fibres with the majority made from two-fold super 100's cotton. Two-fold cotton has 2 yarns that have been twisted together tightly to form one yarn, advantages over a single yarn fabric (singles) are that it is a more durable fabric, weaker spots are reinforced and yarns are stronger and do not fray easily.
The construction process is based on the traditional Jermyn street method with floating lightweight interlinings in the collar and cuffs which gives a softer feel, thus promoting a more comfortable wear.
All collar stand depths (i.e. the height of the collar on the back neck) remain true to the standard of 3.8cm at centre back and all the shirts come fitted with logo tag incorporating collar stiffeners.
All buttons are tonal mother of pearl, engraved with the "Gieves & Hawkes" branding, ligne 18 on the placket and cuff, ligne 14 on the gauntlet.

Shirts - Gieves

All fabrics used in the production of the seasonal range are produced from fine natural fibres in two-fold super 100's cotton. Two-fold cotton has 2 yarns that have been twisted together tightly to form one yarn, advantages over a single yarn fabric (singles) are that it is a more durable fabric, weaker spots are reinforced and yarns are stronger and do not fray easily.
Once again, the Gieves collection features a number of exclusive fabrics and designs.
All buttons are mother of pearl and are engraved with the "No. 1 Savile Row" branding, ligne 18 on the placket and cuff.
The collars and cuffs on Gieves shirts are non-fused. The fabric is stitched together, giving a more softer, luxurious appearance and handle. The internal lining is also lighter giving an overall softer handle to the shirt.
All collar stand depths (i.e. the height of the collar on the back neck) remain true to the standard of 3.8cm at centre back and all the shirts come fitted with logo tag incorporating collar stiffeners, engraved with "No1 Savile Row" branding
A number of shirts will be washed and soft packed. There is no final pressing at the finishing stage, to give a more casual look.
A few of the Gieves shirts will feature distressing involving frayed edges, or small nicks in the fabric to give a "worn appearance".
Please note that a number of shirts will also feature an embroidered feather as the key highlight for the season.

Knitwear

Our knitwear features the very best in luxury yarns such as:

Cashmere:
Cashmere fibres are highly adaptable, providing a fine yarn. It is highly appropriate for all climates as a high moisture content allows insulation properties to change with the relative humidity in the air.

Cashmere Silk mix:
Whilst luxury yarns can be used on their own for certain garments, there are also certain distinct advantages to their being blended with other yarns of similar staple and fineness. The addition of silk makes cashmere more durable as well as adding lustre, with the cashmere providing a downy softness. The yarn produced by this luscious marriage weaves like a dream, providing a plush drapable fabric suitable for scarves or garments.

Dehaired Angora:
Often the hairs of an animal are relatively long and coarse in contrast to the very fine soft down wool required for spinning, therefore the fleece must be dehaired before use which is an expensive process. The fibres are collected by either combing or shearing the animal during the moulting season. They are then sorted by hand to remove any coarse hair. After sorting, the fibre is washed to remove dirt, grease and any vegetable matter gathered in the collection process. This scoured material is dehaired, through a process that mechanically removes any debris such as vegetable matter, and the coarse outer guard hair. At the end of this process, the yarn is then ready to be spun into yarn for weaving or knitting.

Merino Lambswool:
Merino lambswool is renowned for its soft handle, achieved by using the 'first shearing' of the fleece of the lamb, which is then spun into a fine 2 ply yarn. 2-ply yarns ensure better drape and longer durability.

All the knitwear pieces are fully fashioned.

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Ties

Our ties are mainly handmade from 100% silk.
All Gieves & Hawkes silk ties are exclusive to us and are designed at No 1 Savile Row.
Each design is woven and each season every pattern is replaced with new designs according to the theme, direction and colour palette of the season. Every tie incorporates an individual Gieves & Hawkes or Gieves label, with tonal tie loop.
The Gieves & Hawkes tie is manufactured from three pieces of silk, cut on the bias. Once cut, the three pieces of silk are stitched together with tipping added to both of the ties ends. The ties are then "slipped" by hand, a skilled process involving a "slipper" inserting the lining into the tie.
Once the lining has been inserted, the slipper carefully shapes the fabric around the lining and applies a slipstitch to the entire length of the back of the tie by hand. A loop is left at the underside, which allows for movement in the tie and the regaining of the tie's shape.
A light interlining is used so that the bulk comes from the silk. Gieves & Hawkes ties are not padded to give the illusion of quality.
Current widths are 9.5cm at the widest point of the blade for Gieves & Hawkes and 9cm for Gieves.
The tie length is fixed at one length for all types of knot.
English silk has more warp and weft yarns per square inch i.e., the yarns that go up and down when weaving is done to create the fabric. This makes the fabric denser and therefore heavier.
English mills when dyeing, remove the film of 'gum' like coating on the silk to ensure full colour coverage and absorption. Then they put the gum back into the yarn giving its natural weight and lush colour.

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T-Shirts

Our t-shirts are made from 100% cotton.
This season's offering features a long sleeve shirt with printed design and a short sleeve tee.
Although the trend towards distressing shirts is coming to a close, the finish on the t-shirts feature an enzyme wash, giving the impression of a vintage look.
The products are also garment dyed. Garment dying is a process used on finished garments to obtain a specific look, finishing and touch. There are very few limitations, since garments can include applications, prints, embroideries, etc. Besides the visual and touch effect, this process allows for ideal shrinkage results and also allows for smaller dye quantities per colour.

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Shoes

To produce a Gieves & Hawkes shoe takes skill, pride and time... twelve weeks to be precise.
All are English bench-made shoes, Goodyear welt, (a traditional method of manufacturing that produces comfort, excellent shape retention, water resistance and repairable properties) and feature leather insoles.
Indeed every pair of shoes will pass through some 160 separate processes from the careful selection and cutting of the leather to the final polishing and packing.
To ensure our shoes last longer, rotate with other styles every few days. Insert wooden "shoe trees" (or shoe keepers) into shoes to absorb excess moisture, retain the shape of the leather or fabric, and prevent wrinkling and cracking. Shoe trees help to prolong shoe life by 4 or 5 years. Let shoes air dry when storing them. Remember to keep leather styles away from heat sources, as this can dry out the leather.

Shoe	Features	Benefits
Penny Loafer	So called because in the 30's students used to slip a penny under the cross- strap for good luck. Cut low.	Less formal than laced shoes (hence "loafer"); cooler to wear; easier to slip on and off.
5 Tie No Cap Oxford	(Patent leather) "5 tie" refers to the number of pairs of eyelets for the laces. Patent leather - typically for formal occasions. Worn with full evening dress or dinner jacket/tuxedo.	Ultra-smart. Clean style.
5 Tie Cap Oxford	Toecap	Retains the shape of the forefoot allowing comfortable room for the toes
5 Tie punched Cap Oxford	Toecap and throat line decorated with punched brogue style decoration	Toecap retains the shape of the forefoot allowing comfortable room for the toes. Brogue punching creates a slightly more casual style.
5 Tie 2:1 Punched Cap Oxford	Toecap, throat line and rear of vamp decorated with punched brogue style decoration. A "half-brogue" style	Toecap retains the shape of the forefoot allowing comfortable room for the toes. Extent of brogue punching creates a more casual style.
2 Tie Gibson	Tie segment forms an integral part of the vamp	Gives a very clean finish to the appearance of the shoe.
Chelsea Boot	Boot style introduced in the 60's (Brian Epstein commissioned a high-heeled version, which became known as the Beatle Boot). Elasticised side. Despite clean finish generally regarded as a casual shoe style Boot style gives very clean finish.	Gives more protection than Penny Loafer - warmer to wear; an ideal winter shoe. Elasticised side makes putting on and taking off easier (but reduces weather-proofing)

Cufflinks

All of our cufflinks are exclusive to Gieves & Hawkes and designed at No 1 Savile Row.
All our cufflinks are made in England.
All precious metal will feature the Gieves & Hawkes hallmark, our guarantee to the customer that the jewellery is genuine and meets our quality requirements.

Belts

The Gieves & Hawkes belt collection is manufactured exclusively for our stores.
Buckles are made from brass or silver and feature our logo mark.
The skins used for the belts are as follows: calf or bridle leather, suede, nubuck, crocodile or lizard.

Socks

Our socks feature a hand linked toe, as opposed to having the toes stitched together by machine, to produce a much more comfortable sock for the wearer.
Sock sizes given are the same as shoe sizes.
Our socks are either cotton lisle or merino wool, the later of which has 10% nylon for comfort and durability.

Umbrellas

The classic collection of Gieves & Hawkes umbrellas are manufactured in England to specifications unchanged for over 100 years.
The classic black nylon have a Fox metal frame for reliability and endurance and are offered with a variety of wooden handles including traditional whanghee (knobbly handle), malacca, and applewood.